Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Designer profile: Ossie Clark

Ossie wears one of his silk crepe shirts with a one side collar and a jumper knitted by his mother.

I have decided after looking through the magazines and our presentation on the 1960’s to look into one of the designers in more depth from this era rather than a modern one as this would be more in keeping into what we have already been working on. I have got my resources from the internet and books, all the images are from a book created by Judith Watt.
Ossie Clark really named Raymond, was an amazing designer whom in his productive years coincided with London's most optimistic, rule breaking period.Born in Liverpool, when studying in London he was singled out by Vogue in their 1965 issue at just the age of 23 studying at Royal College of Art, this in it's self marked the kind of designer he was thought to be. 
His work is particularly known for his real understanding of the female form. His tailoring skills were apparent in all of his works, and his work was thought to look effortless. Wether he was working with materials such as suede, leather or lighter weight fabrics such as wool, chiffon and silks which became his signature pieces, due to how effortlessly elegant and sophisticated the outcomes looked, but above all his clothes were feminine.


Twiggy models one of Ossie's chiffon dresses. 

Ossie Clark was the first young British designer's work to be exported to New York. Ossie Clark took influence from nature: trees, flowers, the moon, stars, colour and natural forms, this all excited him and his aim was to create beauty in his work. The brilliance behind his work lay in his ability to understand form and proportion and achieve it through cut and fabric.

Celia's Drawing 1969

Cream silk chiffon blouse with a combination of patterns. 1969

Ossie Clark’s big success came when he collaborated with textile designer Ceila Birtwell in 1965, whom later became his wife. Celia’s work was based around bold busy prints that complimented Ossie Clark’s sophisticated clean cut style to tailoring. Their collections were just up the the young fashion conscious youths of the 1960’s street, keeping the designs in trend but with an innovative twist.

Ossie with Chrissie Shirmpton, who wears his quilted coat in Robert Indiana Op-Art fabric. 1965

Ossie's fashion drawing for the coat above.

Ossie Clark's idol was the famous dancer Nijinsky and his love of dance inspired his clothes to be free moving and not to restrict the female form. This style of dressing became quite popular in the 1970’s thanks in large part to the popularity of Clark's clothing. Ossie Clark is well known for his use of muted colours and moss crepe fabric. He also designed shoes, paper dresses, and snakeskin jackets.


Cream chiffon dress with purple floral print, 1970.
Collection of Alfrend Radley


Cream rayon crepe dress and coat with a red and black flower print. 1970.


Another Celia Drawing. 1970


He quickly began to make his mark in the fashion industry after graduation from London’s Royal College of Art, with Alice Pollock's exclusive boutique Quorum featuring his designs in 1966. Ossie presented a collection of white and cream chiffon garments that sold fast.

Radely took over Quorum's debts, after the love of the work and not for business took it tole. Alfred Radley was keen to maintain what made Ossie special and so he continued to support Ossie's aspirations by developing the Ossie Clark Brand and funding large annual fashion shows, expanding Quorum's retail business and distributing Ossie's dresses to leading retailers around the world, this was the beginning of making the Ossie Clark brand available to thousands of ordinary people.
Over the year’s Ossie Clark’s creations have earned him some renowned clients  such as: Twiggy, Penelope Tree, Marianne Faithfull, Talitha Getty, Bianca Jagger, Jean Shrimpton, Elizabeth Taylor and Liza Minnelli, whom all would attend his theatrical events. His friendships were very influential and did a lot for his brand.

Going into the 1980s, Ossie Clark's romantic flowing gowns were no longer in fashion. His fortunes declined to bankruptcy and Ossie Clark largely stopped working commercially. His bitterness at this and a short-sighted determination to sit out the bankruptcy term, meant he worked only on private commissions which were paid for by barter. A loyal band of famous clients and friends would order a dress and pay for it by loaning a holiday house in the Caribbean or paying for his sewing machine to be repaired.
After a low in his carrier due to the mixture of relationships and drugs. He made a come back in the early 1990s he trained the designer Bella Freud to pattern-cut and an extremely promising new beginning was the use of Clark's mastery of pattern cutting chiffon and delicate fabrics by the Ghost label. Clark found their computerised pattern cutter a revelation, able to turn initial ideas into formers almost instantaneously.



Ossie's sketch of ruffled chiffon dress with tie neck. 

Ossie's yellow crepe trousers and chiffon top. 1971.

Ossie's romantic shoot with a white chiffon dress with Celia's black and green clover-leaf design is worn by model Helga James. The old fashioned covered buttons with handmade loops were typical of Ossie. 1969

Ossie's drawing of a day dress with yoke and back detail 1970. 

Classic Ossie Clark photo shoot. 


I found looking at Ossie Clark in more detail really inspiring, this is because of his skills, his eye and ability put together changed fashion through that era, dressing stars such as the Beatles. I have also found it interesting looking at his free and fluid designs, this is something I am going to try in my next project as I think this style may suit me. 

Monday, February 21, 2011

1960's Magazines

I went into the magazine store we have in university to take a look at some primary research from the 1960's although there was only three magazines from the 60's I could find, they were in fact really helpful.

I looked at a general womans magazine at the time, which had some articles in it which really shocked me to see, as to one about taking the contraception pill when it first cam in, and the awareness in checking yourselves for breast cancer. This is not something I expected to see in a magazine from the sixties but it gives you an idea as to what the decade was like.

I also photographed and documented a textile magazine, which had some really interesting knit patterns init and tips for doing things yourself, which I can imagine would have been very popular as they were in a depression after the war. Where as the fashion magazine had the look and feel of a regular magazine, I enjoyed looking at the images of fashion shoots and popular designers of the times.

Key designers that came apparent were:

Mary Quant
Marcel Fenez
Barbara Hulanicki
Kurt Geiger
Maurice of Modern
Etam


Below are some of the strong imagery I collected from the magazines that I felt were very influential.

















Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Introduction into module and beginnings of research.

The first lesson was really good, the power point gave us an idea as to how this module relates to marketing and what is going to be asked from us.  As I have been asked to present a power point about the 1960's in a group next week, I have began some research beginning with the library to get a grasp on the era.

Below is some of the images I collected to get a general feel of the era from a book called sixties design by Philippe Garner:

Op art carpet designed by Antonio Boggeri

Hair style by Vidal Sassoon

Braun "Audio 1" record player, designed by Dieter Rams 


Astronaut Edwin A. Aldrin on the Apollo 11 mission 

Space-age fashion from Andre Courreges 

"A is for Apple", poster designed by The Fool 

I then had a look at the initial shapes of the clothes in a book by John Peacock to get an idea how they evolved throughout the era:
1960 Evening Wear

Day Wear 1961

Day Wear 1963


1966 Evening Wear 

Sports and Leisure Wear 1969

I then decided to go in to a vintage store to get an idea for fucher resources, and managed to take some photographs of some of the items they have on offer. I will definitely visit this shop again and others like it for primary research. I plan to attempt to take photographs of 1960's items next week.